The place we have chosen to introduce to you is a powerful energy centre. We can compare it with world-famous points such as Tibet, Machu Picchu or the Maya peninsula of Yucatan. The wonderful thing is that our country abounds in sacred places, and we do not need to travel so far. One of the most powerful energy portals here is the mystical triangle of Belintash, Karadzhov Kamak and Krastova Gora in the Rhodopes. In the lines that follow we will try to tell you about the magic of these places, but we assure you that you have to see them with your own eyes and feel them with your soul.
The village of Vrata and the Rhodope houses
It was a warm May day. We filled our rucksacks with everything we needed and set off for the starting point, the Rhodope village of Vrata. From there, in about 30 to 40 minutes along a cart track and forest path, we reach the place where we will stay for the next two days. Nestled side by side in the bosom of the mountain, a few authentic Rhodope houses tell of the life of the Rhodope people. Everything there is cosy and makes you feel at home. Our host Stefan and his delicious dishes add to that feeling, and the evenings pass under the starry sky in long tales of life in the mountains.
Belintash, the sanctuary of the Bessi
Before the sun sets, we grab our head torches and head to the rock plateau of Belintash for a breathtaking sunset. Belintash lies high above the villages of Mostovo, Vrata and Dolnoslav. The name has Turkish and old Rhodope roots and means "white stone". It is in fact a rock plateau around 300 m long, set at an altitude of 1225 m. According to legend, Belintash is an ancient Thracian sanctuary of the Bessi tribe, dedicated to Sabazios, the god of healing, vegetation and fertility.
Because of its position, Belintash is also a natural astronomical observatory. At the equinox the sun rises exactly over Sini Vrah and sets exactly over Karadzhov Kamak. Researchers of the area agree on a single theory: Belintash was the place where the ancient people, and later the Thracians, established their connection with the Cosmos. There are also legends that a treasure of Alexander the Great is hidden around the plateau. The prophetess Vanga too spoke of a hidden treasure, one that would be revealed when the rock takes its eight victims. One thing is certain: the place is full of energy for those who can open their heart and soul to what surrounds them.
Krastova Gora
Our day begins with the sunrise and a delicious breakfast. We prepare our rucksacks, pack food for the day and spring Rhodope water, and set out on the hike. The path winds through the cool beech forest, past little bridges and a stream, and leads us to the Ochno ayazmo, the Eye Spring. Here we take a break for lunch, and then we enter the temple to light a candle. Krastova Gora is one of the most mystical places in the country, where it is believed that God enters into communion with every soul. Legend says that the cross on which Jesus Christ was crucified is hidden here, but no one knows its exact location. The power of the place is most keenly felt on the night before 14 September, when the Orthodox calendar celebrates the Feast of the Cross, Krastovden.
Karadzhov Kamak
From Krastova Gora we set out for the last of the three points, Karadzhov Kamak. We walk along the ridge of the mountain and after 30 to 40 minutes we find ourselves in a magical beech forest that leads to the approaches of the sanctuary. When you stand before Karadzhov Kamak, there is no way not to gasp. A curious stone is set between two enormous rocks that look like petrified guardians. According to legend, the protector of the local people, Karadzha the voivode, hid here, and it is from him that the place takes its name.
The climb is made on fitted wooden staircases and a metal railing, and the last few metres are covered on stone steps carved in ancient times. At the top a stunning view opens up towards Krastova Gora, Belintash, Sini Vrah and Haydushki Kamak. It is no accident that some of the most important sanctuaries of the Thracians appear here. It is known that the area around Karadzhov Kamak was inhabited by the priestly clan of the Bessi, guardians of the famous sanctuary of Dionysus. In the area you can also observe rare species of animals such as the black stork, the golden eagle and the peregrine falcon, and there is a good chance of encountering roe deer, red deer and wild goats.
Recharged, inspired and lost in thought, we return to the Rhodope houses, where a delicious patatnik and our kind host await us. These places are magical; they are hard to describe in words. So that you too may experience them, come with us to the Rhodopes.
